




Mustique
November 2007
I sat in the Barbados airport anxiously waiting to meet my travel companions. We were to leave in small groups on chartered planes to the tiny island of Mustique. A couple reasons for my anxiety, one I am not a plane person and the thought of getting on a small aircraft made me uneasy but the big fat reason was I had agreed to attend the week -long celebration with an intimate group of complete strangers. H had mentioned her friends throughout the years but with the exception of a short meeting with her only other Canadian friend Heidi that had taken place a good fifteen years ago, I had not met a single one of them. I had met her father over a luncheon in New York, again 15 odd years ago but no one else from her family. This was quite possibly the craziest thing I had ever done and I had a lot to compare it to.
I had received a letter from her sister in law, outlining the accommodations, scheduled plan of events which was fairly loosey goosey except the day of the service on the beach, a rotation of dinners at each villa and a few housekeeping notes. It was suggested to load up on duty free Grey Goose, all else was taken care of. I was to be housed in a villa called Shogun with 9 other of H’s friends and a couple of her cousins. This was an assortment of H’s favourite people from around the globe, an eclectic crew coming from locations such as London, New Mexico, Los Angeles, Palm Beach, New York, Connecticut, Los Cabos, Honduras and St.Catharines Ontario. I can feel you feeling my anxiety right now. I had done a little research on the joint and wasn’t surprised that it was a haven for wealthy rock stars and fashion designers. This was the place Bryan Adams whisked Amy Winehouse to on her first meltdown. Below I have ripped some tourist info that may help paint the picture:
Famous as the bolthole of celebrities and the super-rich, who build their villas here, Mustique is an enclave of around 130 private villas (some 70 of which are for rent) with one hotel, a guest house (stylish and very expensive nonetheless), a bar and a few shops.
Okay, I didn’t have a clue what bolthole meant, but I knew it was big and my anxiety was hitting fever pitch as I sat with my crisp faux Louis Vuitton baggage.
I noticed a small group gathering and timidly went up and introduced myself. Howard, a close family friend who had been their decorator forever was chatting with Heidi the Canadian who had moved to New York many years ago, fallen in love and moved to Connecticut where she was raising two children with her banker husband. The Canadian thing goes a long way and I basically wrapped myself around her ankles until we got on the plane. Some had already been flown over and some were coming after so it was a small crew that boarded the toy airplane to the island. The sun was going down and the pilot had an air of panic about not being able to see the landing strip if we waited any longer so of course count me in! The flight was loud , tumultuous and didn’t lend itself to a getting to know you chat so I quietly white knuckled it and hoped I would at least see a Mint Julep before the plane went down.
Land we did and when we emerged I felt like Dorothy when the house finally crashes to earth and she steps into a technicolor wonderland. We were greeted in the tiny 2 room airport by staff members from our villa, packing Evian bottles and warm towels to freshen up. We were then whisked away in a cross between a jeep and a golf cart, a little thing they like to call mules (no cars on the island) through the tropical surroundings and narrow roadways until we reached our destination, “Shogun”.
We climbed out of the mule to a scene that can only be described as an episode of Fantasy Island. A torch lit path leading to an entrance where waiters in whites and blacks held trays of tropical cocktails. Seriously, I actually took a quick scout around for Tattoo. We were shown to our rooms; mine an airy suite with a bed, private patio, en-suite and library. The bedrooms formed a horseshoe shape around a fully stocked Koi pond and beyond the dining room, a minimalist living room with an open space looking out on a breathtaking view of the ocean. Next, the patio with another dining area, a pool, and waterfall. The property boasted its own golf course on site and a guest house with another pool. I was starting to warm to the idea.
After we all checked out our digs, we gathered in the dining room for a luxurious dinner prepared by the staff. I looked around the table to take stock, starting to feel very Agatha Christie.
The cast:
Sean and Jeff- Cosmopolitan, strikingly handsome couple from L.A , arrived with extra wigs and were instrumental in arranging this whole show.
Erick- Boyishly attractive actor who appeared in an independent film that H made the year before she got sick.
Heidi- As per mentioned fellow Canadian turned Connecticut housewife, extremely organized, energetic, team captain and head cheerleader.
Padma and Boris- Magnetic couple from New Mexico, H went to private school with Padma and they were lifelong friends ever since.
Tara- Divorcee from Upstate New York who H met on an Ashram.
Steven- Cousin of H who lives in Los Cabos. Fit, handsome, understated.
Nedenia- Another cousin and H’s closest friend, boisterous personality, was with H during her final months in Argentina.
Gabriel- British, Ricky Gervais type.
Vickie- middle-aged single mother with an overactive imagination.
So, we ate, we talked about H, exchanged our favourite H stories and talked about H some more. To be fair, most of them had met before so I was one of the only wild cards in the bunch. After the meal, we did what most people do when they are in unusual surroundings getting acquainted. We drank our faces off. Drank at the villa, drank at the local beachside bar “Basils” (where many drunken celebrities have taken the stage spontaneously) and then had a moonlit visit to H’s favourite Macaroni beach. Back to the villa where the wigs were cracked open, pool was christened and by 3am we all felt pretty darn sure that this was all meant to be. The gal had orchestrated the perfect gathering with the perfect mixture of personalities. And why should I ever have doubted that, of course any friend of H’s would be hand-picked from around the world for their unique perspective and open minds. Still a little voice whispered in my ear just before I drifted off to sleep, “What on earth do you think you’re playing at? “
The next morning around 11ish, I staggered out to the blazing sun for breakfast on the patio. The group had mostly assembled and apparently the staff that had been ready and raring to go for an early breakfast was a bit taken aback by the slovenly crew. I’ll pause for a moment here to address my casual use of the word staff. I know it sounds very off-hand like I was completely comfortable tossing out requests, leaving dishes at the table and clothes strewn around my room only to be picked up , laundered and returned with no questions asked but it really was a bit odd and frankly I liked it.
I was slightly afraid of them and craved their approval in the same way we all try to create fantasy friendships with our mechanics.
The following day, we met up with the peeps from the other villas. H’s half –brother Stan, his wife Leah and their 3 beautiful daughters and sophisticated teenage son. Leah, was a former model who had the kind of beauty that looks as though she was born on a piece of driftwood. Her children were inquisitive and well mannered, her son seemed to harken from another era and would have fit seamlessly in a room with Gershwin or Noel Coward. It was quite spectacular to watch him glide elegantly along the beach or tickling the ivories at one of the two cocktail lounges. I took a long walk with Heidi who was able to fill in some of the blanks of H’s decline. She also assured me that H had told her about her trip to Niagara and really got why I moved back there. I was comforted by that. The rapport between the group was intimate and familiar though we had only come together 24 hours before. It was exactly how it had happened with H so many years before and I never underestimate the power of instant connections. They are a rare gift.
After an afternoon at the beach, we stopped in to have refreshments and watch the charter plane descend with H’s father, mother and step-father, the last of the arrivals. We jumped in the mule to meet the plane and it was when I saw her parents appear that the reality of why we were all here really hit me. They greeted us warmly though the weight of the situation wasn’t too far from the surface. H’s father in particular, looked like he’d been side swiped by grief and appeared much frailer than I had remembered. Her mother, still beautiful in her 80’s, was charming and elegant with a slight reserve that likely came with her pedigree. H’s parents had long ago divorced but there was still residual tension, that awkward combination of living separate lives but forever being connected by the child that carried both of their imprints. It was striking to see each of them so clearly embodied in her.
The next day the scheduled afternoon memorial set the tone right out of the gate. We had a sombre late breakfast and then the group seemed to wander off in different directions, each looking for some space to prepare. I went for a walk around the island, so surreal in its perfection. Around 2:30, we gathered in the foyer to make the trip down to the beach. The ride was silent and I looked over to see Erick with quiet tears streaming down his face. This was it, the final goodbye. If we hadn’t gotten to know each other yet, it sure seemed we were getting a crash course now. As we assembled on H’s favourite beach, I watched her parents arrive and in a moment that was so simple yet heartbreaking, H’s mother looked at her ex-husband and said, “It’s our girl.” They took each other’s hand and joined the circle .I don’t think there is anything sadder than witnessing parents saying goodbye to their child.
The ceremony was poignant without being maudlin, just what she would have wanted. Her nephew and nieces sang a beautiful piece of music, we all shared stories about H and when the time came, her ashes were divided between us to take into the ocean. Her father took the ashes and spread some on his cheek as he wept openly. We each took our ashes and waded into the ocean, I kissed my hand and released her.
I went to her mother to express my condolences and she said, “She was my best friend.”
Later at Shogun the festivities began as we re-grouped after we transformed into our wigs and gowns. I attempted a Liza Minnelli on Gabriel's make-up. Heidi looked smashing in her Angie Dickinson best, Jeff and Sean with their haphazard wigs plunked on their heads and H’s nephew who hands down was the most stunning dame in the room. A few surprises, a few Bea Arthurs and me who wished I had spent more than 8 minutes at Value Village as the end result was a cross between Anne of Green Gables and a lounge singer.
There was an air of celebration, a release after the emotional afternoon and note to self; there is no faster way to level the playing field than a mandatory drag order. Dinner was served on the patio and there were toasts and remembrances. H’s father stood up and read a poem he had written that stopped the table with its raw emotion. The gist of it was a lament that she had not needed him more. There was discomfort from some at the table, the mood having turned as it so often does in situations of grief and farewells. But it was honest, touching and painful. I wanted him to know how much she adored him and how she spoke of him and her mother with such pride. A friend of mine once advised that in situations of death and grieving, everyone deserves a get out of jail free card and I’ve adopted that credo. Though I don’t know all the details of their father, daughter relationship, what I witnessed that night was a broken man who couldn’t accept that his child was gone before him.
And then again the tides turned and the soiree turned celebratory with music. dancing and silliness, a party that could only have been better if H herself was in attendance. The patio that lead off the living room held a pedestal under a light holding H’s red wig.
The next day as I wandered out to the patio, I passed a bench holding an array of exhausted wigs piled on top of each other and a few of the kitchen staff sneaking where the hell did you people come from glances.
H wisely made sure the trip didn’t end on that note, not her style so we had a few days afterward to reflect, dig deeper and relax. The staff surrendered to our idea of breakfast which was a truckload of bacon and grilled cheese sandwiches around 11am. We lounged and read ,explored and danced. I had my first snorkelling experience with H’ brother Stan, Leah and their kids and didn’t get hysterical.
I have never completely recovered from the movie JAWS and am tentative at best around the ocean. The day after the service, we went for a swim and I got to a place where I was jumping in waves with total confidence until one of them grabbed me, dragged me down, spun me around and playfully popped me to the surface. Instead of freaking, I actually considered it a nod from H.
We rotated dinners between the villas, highlighted by a spectacular American Thanksgiving orchestrated by Leah. We played games of Sardines where one person hides and each person that finds them must hide with them until there is one lonely soldier. Considering the size of the villa’s this game could potentially take weeks. Each evening usually ended by dragging all the living room cushions out on to the patio where we would all lie gazing at the stars and as Heidi put it evaluate the events of the day. And then an early hour kitchen raid before we turned in.
By the end of the week I knew about Tara’s troubled ex-husband, Erick’s quirks and talent that went deeper than the average L.A actor, Steven’s subtle humour and hysterical recounts of family pets over the years, Sean’s intelligence and sweetness and Jeff’s wide open heart, Heidi’s instinctive nurturing and plans to adopt, Padma’s quiet strength and Boris’s new parent glow, Nedenia’s huge personality and Honduras soul and pretty much everyone knew I was in desperate need of a date.
I was grateful to her generous family who boldly took on her unusual last wishes. How odd it must have been for them to share their daughter/sister/cousin's farewell with a group of strangers but I can only hope we helped give them comfort and an insight into other facets of H's life.
On the final day we left in shifts as we were all departing to various locations. It felt odd leaving H behind though I knew it was a ridiculous concern. I had a final drink at the airport with Sean, Jeff, Erick and Steven and once again felt like Dorothy making the conflicted departure from Oz.
We have kept in touch, I visited Jeff, Sean and Erick in Los Angeles and as we sat late into the night laughing and yakking and evaluating, we all commented on how H would have loved this evolution of friendships that now seemed cemented. I showed Sean around Toronto for a day in late fall. The following year, Leah was diagnosed with breast cancer and after a gruelling course of treatment, thankfully recovered. Shortly after that I received an email from Heidi breaking the news that she too had been diagnosed with breast cancer but not to worry as she was absolutely going to beat it. She apologized for bearing bad news so soon after H’s death. Heidi died in the fall of 2009, after a brave struggle, the cancer being unusually invasive and unrelenting. I have kept in touch with H’s father who still struggles daily with the loss.
I hate when good people leave, I miss H and her fantastic energy but I do feel her presence in each of the people I met on that crazy ride. It has been said that people in our lives are on loan to us and we should enjoy the time we have with them but not expect to have it forever. Energy doesn’t die, it just changes form.